Grand Palace; or, I'm too sexy for my ticket

The Grand Palace is impressive. That's certainly true. The one mark against it for us as visitors is that it's so difficult to get in - we saw tens of tourists being turned away for unsuitable dress; this is totally understandable when there's a temple involved and people are wearing hot pants, but people wearing white were being refused on the grounds that it could be see-through, even when it clearly wasn't, and anyone with the tiniest bit of ankle peeking through was refused entry. Despite having visited temples in considerately conservative dress all day, Tallulah was turned away due to her loose morals and three-quarter-length trousers and instead of enduring multiple trips to the sarong rental place she decided to donate her ticket to a delighted passing Mexican.

What it is, of course, is a measure of how much the Thais revere their monarchy, and their current king especially, who after 66 years on the throne is the longest-reigning monarch in the world. We went to the mind-blowingly elaborate show Siam Niramit, which was great fun (and where we met our first elephant) and before the performance we were asked to stand for the national anthem. We went to the cinema in the ultra-modern Siam Paragon shopping centre and we stood for the national anthem before the film. In both At 6pm in many public places the national anthem is played and people stand respectfully. However, there is also a great mutual affection between people and king, with pictures lovingly displayed all over Thailand in beautiful frames with flowers and shiny things. We saw these as we took the train down through a number of towns and, without fail, at some point we would pass at least one huge portrait of the king with "LONG LIVE THE KING" written below in Thai and, often, in English. In our tour minibus, above the driver's head where we have often seen Buddha images displayed, our driver had a faded and well-worn portrait of the king.

The most impressive part of the complex, in my opinion, is the area around the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (actually jade - it was thought to be emerald when its longstanding stucco coating chipped away and in a fit of excitement someone mistook the green stuff for the luxury option), and thankfully Tallulah got a decent view of these bits from the grand entrance where she sat writing postcards while Trixie did a swift tour of the interior.

The downside of being suitably dressed is that one is inclined to swelter in the July heat of Bangkok, so the tour also involved the consumption of an entire litre of water purchased just outside.

Gorgeous!

Wat Arun

The temple of Wat Arun looks impressive from the river, but it also looks like a greying concrete monument. 

Up close, you can see the vibrant colours of the inlaid porcelain – donated, so covered in all sorts of domestic crockery patterns cut into floral shapes. 

While it has just as many tourists as some of the other temples, there’s something very calm and laid-back in the atmosphere that’s really very appealing. We saw a monk showing a young family around and encouraging them to pose while he took pictures for them. Overhead, there were tinkling brass bells ringing from the tops of the five prangs that form the centre of the temple complex. Tallulah braved the near-vertical steps to climb the central tower and was rewarded with fantastic views.

Trixie, meanwhile, searched in vain for shade from the noonday sun all around the temple complex.

In Bangkok at twelve o’ clock they foam at the mouth and run

But mad dogs and Englishmen [and two daft Scots] go out in the midday sun

Thais and their Tuk-tuks

The locals are friendly. A smile seems to go a long way and the Thais are persistent but not overly pushy salespeople. They seem to have a great sense of humour and are generally polite and deferential to others. An older woman gave me her seat on the boat on the very last trip and insisted that I sit in it. The exception was the harried attendant on our boat, whom we have twice encountered, who seemed exasperated by life and not filled with the joys of job satisfaction. Regardless, one of our enduring memories of Bangkok will be the shaking of the coin holder that the boat conductors use to sell tickets, along with our lady’s cries of, “INSIDE!” and the whistling of instructions to the driver as the boats stop at each pier.

 

Wat Arun lies just across the river from Wat Pho. We should have taken the cross-river ferry there from pier 8, at Wat Pho, but we made a mistake and hopped on the ferry one stop too soon so we found ourselves on the trickier side of the river for transport, with no hope of walking all the way to the temple. In an uncharacteristically efficient manner, I hailed a taxi and we jumped in to discover ourselves with a small problem in the sense that the driver could not understand our atonal intonation of “Wat Arun”. Tallulah was quick-thinking and showed him the map in the guidebook, only to realise later that as it was annotated in English it probably wouldn’t help much. He thought about it for a minute and asked, “Wat Arun?” It was pleasant just to sit in an air-conditioned taxi for the couple of kilometres – or, as it is known in Bangkok, couple of hours.

I exaggerate, but the traffic seems horrendous. As I understand it, locals see public transport as somewhat demeaning, so many people would prefer to sit in their own cars – often very expensive – than be caught dead on the Skytrain. As a result our Skytrain journey was very pleasant and was like riding in a fridge! A very empty fridge where every single passenger got a seat – certainly not something we ever saw happen on the boat.

Our attempts to get back to the hotel from Siam Square were repeated and abortive. We completed a circuit of the Siam Paragon mall trying to find a taxi, to find two in a row who did not know how to get to our hotel, even with the directions card, and one who said, “Oh, it’s very far from here” in a manner which implied that we would never find anyone to take us. Just when I was beginning to imagine that we would have to bed down in the car park, Tallulah suggested grabbing a passing tuk-tuk, and we entirely failed to bargain well in the relief that someone would take us home!

I wouldn’t say we nearly died in that tuk-tuk – it was relatively incident free – but the ride had a quality that had Tallulah having vivid flashes of our inevitable bloody deaths by passing bus and me composing the headlines: nothing as exciting as “Brit beheaded in freak tuk-tuk tragedy” but more along the lines of “Student dies in traffic accident” – mundane. Though Tallulah did suggest that the tabloids might go for something along the lines of “Tut-tut, tuk-tuk.” With a picture of us photoshopped giving the thumbs down. When we were crossing the lobby we admitted that our legs were like jelly.

Wat Pho

Amazingly, after our first full day, it wasn’t too hot outside at dusk, even after a scorching day. There was a brief rain shower but we missed it when we were eating. Coming back up the river we headed towards bright, backlit fluffy clouds while behind us was a gloriously moody dark grey, highlighting the temples rising from the riverside.

Next we made for those temples – down the river to Wat Pho. It was spectacular. The colours and patterns are so vivid that it is well worth seeing the temple in 3D. They even have a free bottle of water for every visitor. The reclining Buddha is massive (at forty metres long and fifteen metres high, it's the biggest in the world) and an awe-inspiring sight, even if the faithful do their real worship elsewhere while the tourists file through the famous sanctuary with shoes in a bag.

Wandering was the best part, as the temple complex was extensive and fairly quiet away from the main sights. I knew these temples had some golden decorations on the roof; what I didn’t realise is that they had a mirrorball quality. 

Some pictures:

Where are you going?

Suvarnabhumi airport is really pleasant – gold statues and decoration with flowers everywhere. Only downside was having to hunt for landing cards as British Airways had not brought enough on the plane! Silly.

Immediately accosted by people offering us tours, transfers and every tourist amenity you can think of. Everyone, I think, sees us as walking dollar signs (not unreasonably, considering our per-person budget for this trip is a fairly large proportion of the average annual income of a civil servant in Thailand) as everyone wants to take us on a tour. The hotel sent the car for us despite me saying we didn’t want a transfer so, lo and behold, the driver phoned our room to ask if we wanted a tour! And then every time we passed him at the front door he wanted to take us somewhere… The bellman also kept asking us if we have plans and if we wanted a tour. Everywhere we hear the call, "Where are you going?" It’s a funny extension of the fact that Thais ask people where they’re going in the same way as we ask “how are you doing?” or the Chinese ask “have you eaten yet?” – to say hello. In the end we took our dedicated driver up on the offer to drive us to the train station on our last day, which worked out well for all of us.

When we arrived we were tired but not shattered due to having dozed on the plane pretty effectively. It was a surprisingly painless flight. We ate in the hotel restaurant which was perfectly pleasant and not too expensive. Though my glass noodle soup with minced pork didn’t actually have any glass noodles in it. I think they substituted tofu…

Eventually found the boat pier and worked out how it all works. Monks on board so the ticket collector shooed everyone down the boat and arranged a buffer of male passengers around them. Nice way to get around and it took a slight edge off the 34 degree heat. Slight. The Chao Phraya river is brown with silt, but we still noticed the odd bit of litter spoiling the picturesque. The large dead fish floating past was not a highlight.

We alighted at Chinatown for a good wander. Many shrimp and fish sauce cooking smells, not to the delight of Tallulah, combined with hot and crowded alleys – an assault on the senses! But I think we were prepared for Bangkok to be a bit overwhelming so we’re not really suffering too badly from culture shock. Though I was melting in the heat – waiting for the boat my eyebrows were dripping.

Nice meal in an air-conditioned (our first priority) Chinese restaurant called “Texas Suki”! Huge menu with pictures, which was helpful, and I got to try some pork buns! Glass noodles in the veggie spring rolls – maybe that’s where the ones from my soup ended up.

We have discovered the wonderful cheapness of 7-Eleven water and I thought it would be a good idea to stock up with six litres, forgetting of course that I would have to carry them. So slogged back to the hotel, weak and heavy laden. Must remember to drink!

There are so many beautiful buildings, even the most routine ones. We passed a school in Chinatown with a spectacular dragon-adorned gate in brilliant colours. 

From the river we can appreciate the melding of old and new, with ultra-modern but pretty hotel skyscrapers next to old wooden stilt houses on the canals. The boats are brightly coloured and covered in flower garlands. From our balcony we can see a vast number of skyscrapers, all lit up at night. This is a megalopolis.

The Sebastian Chronicles: Hitting the Road

Sebastian again.

Things have taken a sinister turn. Settled into case for flight but so far there has been no movement and I have been in here all night.

Trixie promises we're leaving in twenty minutes. See you in Bangkok. I hope

It's dark in here.

Hello????

The Sebastian Chronicles: Stuff(ing) from Plan Central

Yo.

Here goes - another online pre-departure check-in. Though due to some anomalies with booking through BA and Qantas we can't actually check in online pre-departure... I don't understand everything Trixie and Tallulah say, and quite honestly I tune out a lot (though I feel calling me "cloth-ears" was an unnecessary slur; it's not like I can help it). However, they don't seem to be talking nonsense so I'll take them at their word this time.

I am, however, pleased to report that all hotels have been booked. Overnight trains, too, and I'm one excited teddy to be travelling first class on one of our sleeper excursions. Sadly, the second trip brings a demotion to second class where I will have to travel with the masses. Luckily I am known for my forbearance. Get it? ForBEARance? Never mind.

On a longer trip with fewer tight connections, I'm sure Trixie and Tallulah would be more adventurous and head off into the unknown, but on this brief sojourn I'm relieved that all is in place. Just a couple of daytime trains to go, which can't be booked until nearer the time.

The girls have their visas, too. I don't have a passport and I'm a bit concerned about whether this is OK. I don't want to look silly and ask, though. Someone has to maintain dignity on this adventure, especially when it looks increasingly likely that we'll have one hanging off the boat yelling, "SEXY DOLPHINS" and one trying to practise her German in Bangkok. Even more when we're all going to the opera in the SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE! To see the PEARLFISHERS! Sorry, did I get overexcited?

In any case, we're going to be Bizet.

Geddit?

Fluff ya later.

Sebastian.

Wheels Up! - tips for travelling with mobility issues

Note: the following is entirely based on personal experience and the experiences of others with whom I have discussed these issues. Please consider your own circumstances and needs carefully, and seek medical advice.

So, you're planning to set off on a trip. Perhaps you're facing a progressive illness and coming to terms with your declining mobility. Perhaps you're on the way back to health after a surgery or long-term illness. Perhaps you need a change of scene and you know your deserve a holiday. There's often a woeful lack of guidance for any travellers with disabilities, and I've found especially for those whose limitations fall in that awkward, broad category of "mobility issues": conditions that don't involve permanent confinement to a wheelchair but do involve some trial and error where fatigue and and pain come in.

Here are some suggestions if you're facing travel and not sure what to expect.

1. Set conservative limits on distance

I know; it's not a promising start. But step one involves some serious confrontation of your own abilities, limitations and comfort. Unless the trip is for business or a special occasion you probably have some control over your destination.

When picking a destination, ask:

How long is the journey time and is this realistic?

Does this destination require an overnight flight and can I cope with that?

Is any overnight flight at the beginning or end of the trip?

How stressed am I likely to be leading up to departure and how long will I have to recover afterwards?

If none of these is a dealbreaker, great! However, there's no harm in having a short trip close to home to try out your endurance with low risk.

2. Find yourself a good home base

Even if you don't plan to spend much time in a hotel room, think about this: even if you only sleep there, you are likely to spend a third of your time in the hotel, and if you suffer from physical pain this might be the most important third of your day for ensuring your stamina and comfort.

Make yourself a wishlist of requirements, decide what you can and can't live without, and stick to it:

• Do you need level access? Check for external or internal steps and lifts. 
• Do you need or want ensuite facilities? Consider how far away you could bear to be from a bathroom and take into account whether you need to have some control over your hygiene, especially if you are taking any immunosuppressants.
• Do you sometimes need a wheelchair? If so, make sure you request a room with enough space  to move around and store any equipment (and ask about doorway widths!)
• How far can you expect to go for basic requirements, inside and out? Think about the size of the hotel and find out where suitable rooms are. If you don't need all the facilities of a dedicated accessible room (which may be in a far corner of the hotel to maximise space) you might find that requesting a room close to a lift is more suitable. Also consider the minimum distance from each potential hotel to sources of food and transport.
• Do you have any medication that needs refrigeration? Don't take the presence of refrigerators for granted.
• Similarly, do you need extra, reliable power outlets for equipment? 

You can always ask the hotel for clarification, and this can be a great way of gauging the management's awareness and willingness to help with your needs. Do check out online reviews, with the usual healthy scepticism, if you're concerned about anything, such as bed height or mattress quality. Find out whether the hotel occupies the whole building - if it's only one or two floors (common in large and crowded cities) then remember that your hotel may not be in control of external disruptions to service and access.

Remember that even if you have great stamina at home, we can't underestimate the effects of culture shock and jetlag along with the exhaustion of sightseeing and a new climate. Prepare for extra rest time, and allow occasional rest days on a longer trip. If there are perks that you quite fancy it can be worth treating yourself - perhaps, if you know you're going to be spending a lot of time in or around a hotel, having a lively view and a balcony would make you feel part of the action.

3. Be realistic about your destination

You don't have to go looking for trouble, but always endeavour to get a clear picture of what to expect with regards to accessibility and challenges. Do think about how you'll feel after walking on uneven pavement all day if that's a local hazard, and consider your transport options. One of the hardest things I've had to deal with has been the apparently minor issue of reaching the end of my energy reserves and having to stand waiting for a delayed bus!

And you don't have to be a slave to the guidebook's "travellers with disabilities" section, either. You know your requirements and remember that some books only cover wheelchair access. Don't write off anywhere before looking into it yourself - in some countries, for example, travel can be a real headache on wheels but if you have the ability to negotiate steep pavements and uneven surfaces you can treat yourself to taxis and hotels with every luxury for a relative pittance.

Do check for yourself what restrictions may be in place with regard to bringing medication in. Sometimes the guidebook won't have the latest rules.

4. Be prepared for unfairness

I'm not saying we shouldn't challenge unfair policies, but do be prepared for some measure of frustration through the whole process. Some airlines restrict the number of passengers with disabilities and in most circumstances the prized exit row seats are off-limits. While most allow extra time, a minority make passengers with disabilities board late. Make sure you know the airline or airport policies and can deal with their restrictions without seething, and as always use the contact info online if you want to know more.

People can be a less predictable hassle. Yes, we're more at the whims of the airline employees whom we encounter than we might wish, and sometimes other passengers (even those with disabilities) will be ignorant of the reasons for having what they see as "special treatment" and might question the need for assistance. The vast majority of people will say nothing and have no problem, however, and remember that it's usually a result of their own frustrations and they won't remember the irritation later, even though it might feel like they are sending waves of disapproval your way. Ignore it and remember that, while occasional obnixious people get everywhere, most people are nice!

5. Find the most comfortable travel arrangement

Don't be shy about asking what help is available if there's a chance that you can save yourself a lot of hassle and pain. Some airlines will happily offer a free reservation of a bulkhead seat and (unless you will be more comfortable not moving during the flight) an aisle seat is usually easy to request and can make a huge difference to comfort. While no one really wants to be too close to the bathrooms on a long flight, situating yourself in the general area can be a good idea if you're stiff but likely to get up and down to go to the toilet. Ask at check-in if the flight is full, as if not a helpful airline employee might be happy to put you in a quiet spot.

Do ask for more time to board - which is not only great for getting settled and getting your hand luggage away, but means you're not as vulnerable to bumping or standing around for too long. Some airlines board people with mobility restrictions at the same time as young families, and you just have to imagine the combination of bouncing kids and a bunch of people with sticks and walkers to know that's a bad idea. In this case it is definitely worth asking to not board with this group, even if it means hanging back until the families have had a good head start.

On board, make the flight attendants aware if you have any particular needs. Most armrests can be moved if you know how and they can make sure that you don't have to manoeuvre any more than need be. If the seatbelt is uncomfortable extensions are available and you can ask the flight attendants for one when you board or as they pass. Scheduled airlines typically offer extensions that match the regular belts, whereas some budget airlines will provide you with one in a very indiscreet shade! They can be purchased, and are accepted by most airlines, though some (such as Lufthansa) use a different buckling mechanism on some planes so you may still have to ask. Get a headstart on your comfort by selecting a seat online, if possible, and check out SeatGuru to find the best spot for you on your aircraft. This will also give you important information on seat pitch and width.

If flying causes too much pain and stress, consider the alternatives. Train travel can be a much easier prospect, especially for a trial run, since there is much more freedom to move around and fewer hurdles to jump before boarding the train. In fact, some train journeys are holidays in themselves and you can see spectacular scenery while meeting locals and not having to exert yourself too much!

6. Embrace the chair!

The airport wheelchair assistance service is your friend. If you're fine going the distance on foot, discount it, but if any part of the walking, queueing and standing around is going to leave you sore and tired before you even get on the plane, get the help. If you've always been independent I understand that it can be difficult to acknowledge your limitations with such a visible symbol, but remember that most of us would want someone we care about to accept help rather than struggling on. 

In most cases, the wheelchair route through the airport is somewhat swifter than the FootRoute, which is a blessing if you need time to decompress before the business of boarding. Don't underestimate the difference it can make when connecting, when you may need to collect luggage and pass through security again.

Sometimes you will be scooped up from check-in, while sometimes you will need to go to an appointed location for wheelchair pickup. Do request assistance when booking a ticket, but if for any reason this has not been processed (it does happen) just stay calm, request assistance and there is usually no problem. In this case, ask the desk agent to check that a request is applied to all further flights on the ticket.

7. Appreciate your helpers

If you travel regularly from one airport, chances are you will become a familiar face to the assistants. All the more reason to be the kind of traveller they are happy to welcome back! When travelling alone, it's nice to have the chance to chat, anyway.

Arriving in a new place, your assistants are likely to be the first local people you meet. This makes them a valuable and often enthusiastic ambassador for their home city and a source of great pointers. This can be your chance to ask any burning questions and to ask for local recommendations. 

In one sense, it's not fair that we should pay more than anyone else for a service we don't want to need, but see point 4 again for a refresher. When someone has pushed you through an airport, collected your luggage, found an express route through passport control, been pleasant and given you sightseeing tips and driving directions, then it's more than worth tipping generously according to your ability. Whether or not it's expected, unless it's taboo in your destination it's likely to be appreciated and will show that you value the service. 

------------

Obviously, we all need to consider our own requirements, but if you're nervous about the prospect of travel with new restrictions, I hope that this will be of some encouragement that it is possible. It's not true that we can all do anything we fancy, but with some realistic expectations, there's no reason why we shouldn't be able to enjoy the abilities we have!

The Sebastian Chronicles: Pre-Departure Paws for Thought

Yo. Sebastian here.

My friends over at Re-Learning American seemed keen to get in touch again, so I thought I'd pop in before the serious packing commences.

Glad you can join me us on my our adventure. Trixie and Tallulah need a big strong bear to accompany them. Just between you and me, they tend to read maps upside down and if I have to listen to Trixie argue with her GPS one more time... well, it won't just be Jesus who's taking the wheel, if you know what I'm saying.

I want you to know that I'll take good care of these girls, as much as any one bear can. I'm the security conscious one among us, and I intend to make sure that their wallets are zipped tight and their money belts are securely fastened. This may not only be about security, I admit. I like to travel in the luggage to warn off any prying fingers as we make our way through the airport, and I have no intention of being wrapped in a sarong and crammed between a stuffed kangaroo and a lacquered monk's bowl, staring down the business end of a didgeridoo. The Christmas shopping in New York was bad enough.

But I digress. I'll keep the ladies under control, and in return they promise I will see more than the daily pillow-fluffing routine. Personally, I'm hoping for some pink dolphins, and a tan.

If you don't hear from Trixie and Tallulah for a while, safe to assume they've been eaten by a bear. Follow me on Twitter to find out where I bury the leftovers bodies.

Bear out.

Are We Bearly There Yet?

Sebastian is a loyal teddy bear and travelling companion. He stays with me through illness and nightmares and never complains when he gets flung out of bed. When I take him travelling he usually stays in the hotel room, but on a recent trip some of his friends insisted that he get a few outings.

Here's a picture diary of a trip to New York City.

Ouch!

The St Patrick's Day Parade Saga, in which Sebastian watches the parade, roams the West Village (he's bear-hemian), discovers the green cocktails, overindulges in green beer and suffers in the digestive sense.

Despite this temporary setback, he pushed through the hangover to triumph as one of the last finishers of the half marathon (little legs, you know)

He wrote some postcards.

He made friends with the NYPD who let him pose on their car, and a clingy toy soldier at FAO Schwarz.

He bought his first souvenir.

Became all cool when hanging around the business hotspots in midtown.

But when he went to Times Square he rediscovered his childlike wonder.

Yes, all of this sounds a bit crazy. But on our forthcoming trip, Sebastian will be keeping everyone update via twitter. So, for minor bits of news and a heads-up whenever this blog gets updated, follow him here!

Tropical Trailblazers

Looking ahead to the next journey, I anticipate new experiences, culture shock, good food and great company in the form of a new travelling companion, one of my best friends, whom we shall call Tallulah.

We've been spreading travel guides, coffee table books and maps out for more than a year now, since that fateful day in the Hard Rock Cafe in Edinburgh when one of us said, "I wish I could travel round the world on an epic adventure," and the other said, "Well, let's do that then" - still not clear which was which - and we laid down our onion rings and started plotting. We suffered through that stage when our itinerary for Australia was blank except for a drawing of a mysterious koala. We even stopped going to the HRC so we could save, such was our commitment to the cause.

Many texts, emails, natural disasters and visits to Trailfinders later (excellent people there, by the way), we're all ready with our tickets and can plan in more detail. Thai visa applications, medical import permissions for Singapore, evisitor visas for Australia, lots of inoculations... these lie before us.

I'm looking forward to our crazy adventures: pronouncing things badly in elementary Thai, trying not to get ripped off despite being obvious tourists, finding out why Tallulah wrote "SEXY DOLPHINS" on our itinerary last Saturday, travelling on sleeper trains in South East Asia, learning to cook in Thailand, fighting off killer wallabies in the outback, being made fun of when I drop Latin phrases into conversation (ad hoc is already being used against me as regards sightseeing) and standing under the Sydney Harbour Bridge, knowing that we've made it.

Here's our basic route:

LONDON - BANGKOK (overland to) SINGAPORE - SYDNEY - ALICE SPRINGS (tour in campervan) - MELBOURNE - HONG KONG - LONDON

To anyone who has done a similar trip or has visited any of these places: we would be grateful for your recommendations!

New Adventures

It's so easy to forget that travel doesn't come with a rule book. Handbooks abound; there is a wealth of great advice and useful tips from seasoned travellers and on occasion it certainly seems like there is an ironically well-trodden route to independent travel.

Three years ago I was struggling on one of my travel adventures, in increasing pain and no longer able to seize my opportunities as I would wish. I struggled as much with the fear of failure accompanying a capitulation to the counterintuitive necessity of giving up. Watching my own body disintegrate into a mass of inflammation and acute pain, I responded to the internal voice that had been pleading for nearly two weeks: come home.

My relief upon the return to the familiar comforts of my home was shortlived. I felt that I had been summoned home to a greater, harder adventure: hanging on through the extreme pains that come with a serious flareup of an autoimmune disease and finding my way through the daunting tangle of multiple bureaucracies that confront the chronically ill in this most vulnerable episode.

For one afflicted with a permanent case of itchy feet, being stuck in one chair for months at a time is torturous, but one of my coping mechanisms was a healthy dose of travel-brochure escapism. I dreamed of far-flung destinations, but a highly-supported short break to a coastal destination less than one hundred miles away was just as exciting. After a relaxing European getaway, and the confidence that the worst of my pain was somewhat under control, I felt ready to attempt an independent trip last November, where I enjoyed great support from airport workers who are becoming rather used to seeing me these days.

First trips are often something of a steep learning curve, and I overdid it a bit so that I experienced a bit of a flareup upon my return. Nevertheless I was determined to work out a safe middle ground, and after a successful trip this year I look forward to better travel management on my part.

With my specific mobility problems, I feel blessed in the "negotiable" nature of my ailments; fatigue management is the major concern, so there are many activities that are not entirely out of the question, leaving options open to me that may not be suitable for some wheelchair users, for example. However, the pain factor takes some trial and error, and the errors are terrifying!

I remain a bit apprehensive about what my future travels have in store for me - and whether my health will ever allow me to do some of the more adventurous things that appeal now but would have terrified me when I was younger - but it's also a new adventure, an opportunity to do things that seemed impossible and unattainable only two years ago.

So I strike forth, conscious that the decisions I make at this stage determine the success of the trip, and even whether I come home in a reasonable healthy state. I cannot follow the independent traveller footpath on this occasion. "Rustic" facilities are out of the question, and even the local terrain and its crowds receive careful consideration before major decisions are made. I can't afford the flexibility that I would, in other circumstances, relish. Climate is a greater issue than before, and while I have never enjoyed humidity personally, my body seems to relish it. I must find a new way to travel, grasping at opportunities and pragmatically rejecting fun activities that are not in my best interest.

From this side of the pharmacy, every travel experience will be new: scarier, less predictable and wholly unknown, but also exciting. I look forward to the journey.

Cyprus Delight

I went to sleep on Sunday night dreaming of breakfast  - which I missed as I slept in on Monday morning. There is irony for you.

After a good shower and some cheese from our fridge supply, we drove up to Ktima Paphos (the old town perched on the hill) in search of the two museums we knew to be open on Monday. Having struggled to find a free spot, I parked in a cactus and we proceeded to the Byzantine Museum via the municipal gardens. Opposite was a shop called "Thesis". They were having a sale. No comment. We left our staff in a locker in the main entrance and the proprietor showed us the oldest icon – 1300 years old. "10 years younger than me," he said. The icons were beautiful – all painted directly onto the wood and using texture as well as colour, with intricate patterns carved into the halos. I was eavesdropping on some German women who seemed to know their stuff and were discussing each icon as they walked around. I think the gist of what they were saying is that the style remained remarkably consistent throughout the centuries of Venetian rule. The lost some of their credibility, however, when one of them described the Madonna and child collection as “ein Babyfest” – I know Christoph assures me there is no such word in German, but (a) that never stopped a German before and (b) I know what I heard. There was a room of vestments and Bethhad guessed correctly that my favourite would be the purple one, with gold embroidery. She picked out a crown to match, and it's sweet that she thinks they'll make me a bishop by the end of the fortnight. 

Andreas, the proprietor, showed us the icons that he made himself and showed me my name saint, Katerina. "This is you, see, with the crown." They clearly appreciate me here. He told us how he started sculpting icons to make ends meet when it was illegal to have more than one job in Cyprus – so he didn't get caught be changed a letter of his name on the packaging. Then when I bought icons he insisted I have a free postcard of his church at Geroskipou, and said we must visit there. He also plied us with Cyprus Delight (think Turkish delight only definitely not Turkish) – "one for the road?"

We retraced our steps to the Ethnographical Museum, housed in a large still occupied home. Opposite Beth spied a vestment tailoring shop and went in to ogle fabrics. The lower level of the museum was laid out as a traditional Cypriot dwelling – a classic hot country rooms-off-courtyard set up.

They have quite the collection of farm implements and workshop items that show how labour-intensive ordinary life was until very recently.

This ingenious contraption is a hand-powered olive press, with the initial crushing done by the big rock bit and the oil finally collected using the wooden machine to the rear.

 This is a chapel in a cave off the courtyard.

Returning to the car we we left in the large cactus, we climbed in (only slightly perforated) and followed the war in the streets over to the bazaar end of town, where we parked by the mosque in the Mouflattos area. A cafe on the corner offered a "mosque special" takeaway coffee.

The market was eerily deserted, except for the German ladies from the Byzantine Museum. The random cluster of postcard and magnet stands sent me on a payment odyssey to three stalls - which is how I found out that they were closing for a siesta. We had our own siesta at a cafe, outdoors overlooking Kato Paphos and the sea.

We enjoyed mixed kebabs in a leisurely manner then returned to the hotel to lounge in the common area. Beth got online and we watched the Big Bang Theory. I wrote up my journal! We ate from our fridge supply watching New Tricks. I ended the evening drifting off in the lobby as Beth asked, "Kathleen, are you being mesmerised by the lamp?"

Yes, Beth. Yes, I was.